SUNDAY 4 AUGUST 2019

Hong Kong Guide: Where to Eat, What To Do, HK Bars | Tall Buildings and Red Hues



In March, after finishing my internship with Perth Festival, I spontaneously decided to reward myself with a trip to Japan. The initial plan was that I'd spend a week with my family and then meet up with one of my best friends and a couple of old mates and hang about in Tokyo for another week. About two weeks before I was due to leave for Japan however, circumstances changed on my friend's end and our plans changed last minute.

The new plan was: after a week in Japan with my family, I'd meet my friend in Hong Kong, spend a few days there and then fly to Danang, Vietnam for a few days. It was pretty crazy and super last minute, but I loved the spontaneity of it. I was away from Perth for the whole of March, which was also my birthday month. Spending your birthday overseas is such a special thing, the atmosphere and feeling of the day is completely different from the norm, and I was so lucky to be able to spend it with my family and friends.


For our three nights in Hong Kong, we stayed at The Upper House in Admiralty. We were in a corner room, which afforded us beautiful views of staggeringly tall buildings set against lush, green mountains. The room and hotel itself was so photogenic. It was contemporary and spacious with clean lines and warm tones.




It was my first time in Hong Kong. I had always wanted to go, ever since I made a couple friends from Hong Kong during my semester abroad in the UK. I absolutely loved photographing the streets, scenes and people in Hong Kong, there was something so eye-catching about the bustling island. With the current protests over extradition laws happening in Hong Kong, I've been thinking a lot about my friends there, the big city and its political atmosphere.

The buildings and colours in Hong Kong were amazing. Coming from someone who lives in Perth, a place that stretches far on flat land with wide skies and maybe four or five tall buildings in the CBD, the buildings in Hong Kong were unbelievable. They were so tall and so close to each other. Everyday apartments and office buildings that shot up to the sky, I couldn't believe these giant, sky scrapping buildings were homes and workplaces to the people of Hong Kong. If I looked up for too long, I felt dizzy. I really loved the buildings, they held such a big presence and the apartments were often painted in warm pastels.



One of my favourite moments was spending a leisurely afternoon at Song Cha Xie, a teahouse in Nan Lian Garden. My friend and I spent hours drinking Pu-er and Da Hong Pao tea, eating har gow and snacking on red bean pastries and almond biscuits. The teahouse was quiet and tranquil, away from the bustling city with green hills and lush nature surrounding us. Nan Lian Garden and the adjoining Chi Lin Nunnery were so beautiful, especially the Tang Dynasty architecture set against the contrasting, massively tall modern apartments.


Speaking of har gow, Hong Kong is famous for dim sum, and I'm pretty sure we had it everyday. Thinking about Hong Kong and dim sum now, really makes me crave it. Along with our daily dim sum, what caught my eye whilst I was there were the taxis. I loved that they were always red. There was something extremely nostalgic about that particular red. Perhaps the colour was frequent throughout my childhood in Malaysia. The taxis and that red made Hong Kong even more pleasing to photograph.


My March trip really reminded me of how much I love hot pot. I rarely have it here in Perth, besides from having nabe at home which is slightly different from the Chinese style hot pot I had in Hong Kong. The past few years have seen a spike in hot pot popularity, especially with mega chains such as Haidilao. Even Perth has recently sprouted a few hot pot places here and there. I love the communal way of cooking and eating that hot pot affords, especially eating it with friends and family. Budaoweng Hot Pot had these amazing fried beancurd rolls, I didn't even cook them in the soup, they were so crispy and yummy as they were.


Other than dim sum and hot pot, cha chaan tengs are quintessential places to eat in Hong Kong. A mix between a retro, western cafe and a casual Asian diner, cha chaan tengs are laid back eateries that serve up a mix of Hong Kong and Hong Kong-style western food. Think white toast with condensed milk, pork chop baked rice, instant noodles, French toast and Hong Kong milk tea, all at super affordable prices. We had breakfast at Mido Cafe in Yau Ma Tei. The floors and walls were covered in pastel tiles, the chairs were mismatched, clouded sunlight streamed through glass paned windows and the service was in typical Hong Kong fashion - fast, brisk and straight to the point. It was a great place to start the day.


You can't go to Hong Kong and not see its nightlife or go out drinking. The prices of drinks are extremely steep though, so be warned. Not being used to HK$ and the exchange rate, after I looked at my bank statement when I came back, I realised I bought a AUD$30 sloe gin and tonic, that's three times the usual price of a G&T in Perth! I was shocked, but I suppose we didn't just pay for drinks, we paid for the environment and atmosphere. There were some pretty cool bars in Hong Kong with the most amazing vibes.

The Iron Fairies for example was like a dark and moody bunker, it was decorated with hundreds of butterflies and Iron Fairy figurines and had live music.

Old Bailey in Tai Kwun Lane was an open roof top bar with a quiet and relaxed atmosphere.

Aberdeen Street Social in PMQ was a casual and laid back space, perfect for an afternoon drink or refreshment after exploring PMQ's architecture and quirky shops.

Dr Fern's Gin Parlour - where I spend $AUD30 on the best sloe G&T I've ever had - was a "Doctors Office" with countless types of gin and gin based cocktails, and bartenders that wore doctor's coats.

Foxglove was a fun speakeasy with live music. Finding the entrance was half of the fun, the entrance was a hallway lined with mirrors and an unmanned reception counter. There was nothing else besides an umbrella holder and vintage umbrellas displayed behind glass cabinets. I don't want to give away how to open the door, but don't do what I did which was push against the mirrors.

I also wanted to talk about Mott 32 because it was such a good restaurant. Although definitely on the pricer side of Hong Kong dinning, Mott32 honestly had the best Chinese food I've ever eaten. They're known for their signature dish, apple wood smoked Peking duck, a dish that you have to pre-order at least a day before. It was Chinese food done to perfection. Everything, from the stir-fry broccoli, sautéed asparagus, melt in your mouth abalone, hot and sour soup, king prawn to the modern cocktails with distinct Asian flavours like chrysanthemum, was all so, so good and completely worth Mott32's steep prices. If you have the chance and don't mind paying a little extra, I'd highly recommend Mott32 for a special dinner.

Mott32 was also the place where I met up with an old friend that I hadn't seen in two years! It was so good seeing my friend again, and catching up over cocktails and delicious Chinese food.


The streets of Hong Kong at night, especially in Soho were so atmospheric. Dashes and sparks of red backed lights lined steep streets. With a lack of cold white light that usually come with street lamps, the dark streets of Hong Kong were lit up with neon signs and red lanterns.

My trip to Hong Kong was quick. I really want to go back again and explore more areas of Hong Kong. I didn't manage to do typically touristy things like hike to Victoria Peak or take the Star Ferry, so those activities are definitely on my to-do list the next time I go to Hong Kong! There's also Macao, which I've heard many travellers take a day trip to. Next time I go, I want to go for longer and spend my time more slowly.


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